'Just Do It' - Nike's Slogan and Mustering Up Gym Motivation

'Just Do It'. It's an easily recognisable and memorable slogan by one of the most popular brands, and I've always wondered what it meant (typical me, over-analysing everything!)

I remember being confused way back in Year 8 during the height of the small Nike rucksacks when everyone at school had one (mine was pastel pink, btw). 'Just Do It'? Do what?! It was only when I was lying in bed last night, going over the day's events and thinking about just having bought some running gear with that infamous swoosh on a few hours earlier, that I realised what it meant in the current context of my life.

I've interpreted it as the most wonderful mantra for motivating myself to go to the gym, or for a run outside on the days when I prefer to be in the fresh air. Sitting around and thinking about going to the gym will not get you to the gym. Intentions are nothing without action - thoughts are merely intangible things until we put them into practice and alter our behaviour. Of course there are days when I'm tired or fed up or have had a stressful day and the anxiety has exhausted the last trickles of energy and motivation, but another part of me knows that this is all in the mind. Exercising when you're feeling rubbish is more important than doing it when you're feeling good. 

So I 'Just Do It'. Just one tiny action - put your kit on. Don't think about what you're going to do once you get there, or whether you'll have enough energy to sustain an entire session, or about the actual effort of getting ready and making your way to the gym/outside. The mere act of putting on your kit is half the problem solved and will make you want to get out and exercise, instead of staying in your comfy clothes and crawling back into bed or lounging about on the sofa and thinking about the run that could have been...

Running: Review of recent purchases and my running wishlist for 2015

I've only run outside a couple of times, but I am eagerly looking forward to changing up my gym routine for the the great outdoors as the weather warms up (she writes with naive positivity mere days after the Winter Solstice!)

I've bought some new things recently to aid this transition from running inside a gym to outside in a public space and thought I'd review them for anyone else who is perhaps considering making a greater commitment to running and would like to invest in some long-term pieces.

1) Nike Dri-FIT Knit Long-Sleeved Top

I bought this from SweatShop in Westfield, Stratford for £50 and have now just discovered that it's been reduced to £39.99 on the Nike website! I hate when that happens! You'd think the Nike site would be more expensive but not in this case.

Here's some info from the site:

SUPERIOR COMFORT TO MOVE WITH YOU 

The Nike Dri-FIT Knit Long-Sleeve Women's Running Shirt features zoned Dri-FIT knit fabric that helps keep you dry and comfortable while regulating body temperature on your run.

FREEDOM TO MOVE

Soft, high-stretch knit material lets you move freely and comfortably. It's seamlessly constructed with nylon and polyester yarns for a lightweight, comfortable feel.

TEMPERATURE CONTROL

Climate control zones-made up of variations in fabric density-warm or cool you where needed. Textured mesh knit into the fabric enhances overall breathability.

STAY DRY 

Dri-FIT fabric helps keep you dry and comfortable by wicking sweat away to the fabric's surface, where it quickly evaporates.

MORE BENEFITS 

• Dri-FIT fabric wicks sweat away to help keep you dry and comfortable
• Back neck tape with repeat Nike Running trademark print for durability
• Long raglan sleeves for enhanced range of motion
• Thumbholes help keep sleeve cuffs in place for coverage and warmth
• Cord management loop on the center-back helps keep cords out of the way
• Reflective elements enhance visibility in low light

PRODUCT DETAILS

• Fabric: Body/upper back: Dri-FIT 56% polyester/44% nylon. Back/side panels: Dri-FIT 54% polyester/46% nylon. Center front/center back: Dri-FIT 52% nylon/48% polyester.
• Machine Wash

This top is so soft and a dream to run it. It feels snug over the contours of my body without being overly restrictive, and my favourite feature is the thumbholes as they really do keep your hands surprisingly warm!

2) Puma PR Great Run Ladies Backpack - £45.99

Well...I say £45.99. I have just found three places online that do it cheaper. I didn't think it would be possible to become increasingly irate as I wrote a blog post but if there's one thing that annoys me, it's paying for something and discovering that you can get it cheaper elsewhere, or that it's been reduced a few days/weeks later. Argh! On the positive side, I guess I didn't have to pay for delivery...

The Puma Great North Run Backpack is designed to carry all your personal items while you train, thanks to the zipped main compartment and adjustable shoulder, chest and waist straps that offer a comfortable fit. 

> Puma Great North Run Backpack 
> Adjustable straps 
> Zipped main compartment 
> Zipped waist pocket 
> Waist strap 
> Chest strap 
> H39, W21, D13cm

When I tried this backpack on with the top, I was really surprised at how much I loved it. The zipped waist pocket is probably my favourite design feature, as it's in the perfect place to keep energy gels/tissues/Vaseline/phone etc without disturbing the flow of your run.

On Start Fitness it retails for £29.95. I have this exact colour and style, but without the 'Great Run' logo printed on the grey mesh panelling on the front. Sports Direct do the exact version I have for £36.99.

I browsed the rails for both of these items and deliberated for a while, picking them up an then putting them back when I saw the price tag. But when I looked at the qualities and functionality of both, as well as the amazingly vivid colours, I couldn't leave them in the shop! To be fair on myself, I don't buy my clothes from the high street anymore (besides the essentials) and reasoned that, on a cost-per-wear basis, I'd be getting my money's worth in the long term.

Here's what they look like when worn together:

2 hours sleep the previous night, an hour's nap in the day and I was off for a 5K run. Just who do I think I am?!!

The bag fits so well and doesn't spoil my stride whilst running - it feels like a natural extension of my body it's so comfortable! The waist strap is really useful, especially in the winter when chapped lips and a runny nose whilst running are provoked by colder conditions. It's so easy to dip in and out of it to get what I need without disrupting the flow of my run which is why this bag gets a big thumbs up from me. Plus, the colour is divine!

3) HUMA Chia Energy Gels

Whilst browsing Sweatshop, I came across I range of food and drink to replace lost electrolytes and maintain high energy levels for exercise. Some of them looked effective but when I read the ingredients there was quite a lot of chemicals listed and I didn't really feel like putting that in my body, especially when I try my best to eliminate chemicals and processed stuff from the food I eat.

Then I found these energy gels and was immediately swayed after reading the ingredients. I bought some Apple & Cinnamon and Mango flavoured ones because that was all that was available in store. I didn't even know these other flavours existed until browsing online upon returning home!

The ingredients of the Apple and Cinnamon one are: Apple Puree, Evaporated Cane Juice, Filtered Water, Brown Rice Syrup, Ground Chia Seeds, Sea Salt, Citric Acid, Cinnamon. Amazon states this:

• Long-Lasting Performance - 2:1 Glucose (short and long chains) to Fructose ratio combined with all 9 essential amino acids give you maximum boost

The sugars are all natural, and seeing as I try to make sure I eat a teaspoon of chia seeds every morning with my porridge, so it's nice to know that this superfood is also in my energy gels! I'll most likely be buying these gels in bulk from Amazon now, as it works out cheaper per packet than paying for them individually in store.

4) "Bangs and a Bun Presents - Be Pretty On Rest Days: The Badass Woman's Guide to Running" e-Book

This humorously-named e-Book is written by Muireann Carey-Campbell who blogs at bangsandabun.com, I'm only about halfway through, but it's really interesting to read the experiences of how other people got into running seeing as I've only just started. Her writing style is so positive and uplifting and I always feel inspired after reading her work, both in the e-Book and on her blog.

Running goals for 2015

I feel like I've acheived a lot in the five weeks since I started running, and this has got me wondering what else my body is capable of achieving if I pushed it just that little bit more.

• Running outside more as we ease into the warmer months: As spring and summer arrive, I can see myself shunning the treadmill and enclosed space of the gym for the streets of London. I'd really like to join Run Dem Crew once my speed and pace (and miles!) improve. They say walking is the best way to explore a city, but I think running might trump this!
• Victoria Park 10K: I have signed up to my first ever 10K which is exactly 4 weeks tomorrow, and I am slightly nervous but really excited. Google Maps says Vicky Park is a 13 min walk from where I live, but I reckon I could get there in half the time if I ran there. Its close proximity means I have no excuse not to do this! 

Running purchases in the New Year

1) Garmin Forerunner 210

This greater commitment to running brings into question exactly how I'm going to track my progress. In order to improve, I need to know what my current performance is like, and the Nike+ pedometer on my iPod just isn't cutting it any more. I've been trying to remember things like time, distance, average pace etc and then logging this onto an Excel spreadsheet when I return home, but it's really time consuming and naturally I forget some of the information so it's quite inconsistent.

I need something more, and I know exactly what it is: The Garmin Forerunner 210

It currently retails at £129 on Amazon, but Sweatshop are doing it for £114.99. I'm going to wait until after the New Year as I'm hoping for further reductions in the January sales. Here's all the features:

• High-sensitivity GPS-enabled running watch; comes with heart rate monitor
• HotFix satellite prediction finds satellites quickly so you can start running straight away
• Records your time, pace, distance, heart rate, calories burned and more
• Premium soft strap heart rate monitor calculates calorie consumption based on heart rate fluctuations
• View, replay and share your workout for free online at Garmin Connect; be part of the Garmin fitness community

This particular version is special because it allows you to track your progress online, so no more Excel Spreadsheets for me as it all loads up instantly after after a run!

2) New running shoes

I need to do a bit more research on this one, but I'm pretty sure I'll be going to Sweatshop or another specialist running shop to get my feet and gait and all the rest of it checked. Running is a very high impact form of exercise and I'd definitely be willing to spend that little bit extra if it meant that I was protecting and preventing my feet from any future damage.

3) Yurbuds Inspire for Women earphones

These are specially designed to fit smaller ears and are water and sweat resistant.

• Size: Size 4/5
• TwistLock Technology Yurbuds TwistLock into place for a secure fit that never falls out even under the most intense workout conditions.
• Sweat + Water Resistance Developed for training in any conditions.
• Ambient Noise Awareness Designed to allow more ambient noise than most other earphones at the same volume levels.

All I can say is bring on January 12th when my student loan arrives! (If you're reading this Mum, I'm joking, I promise...)

Corset Review: What Katie Did - Morticia Corset

I love corsets. My love of a vintage silhouette pre-dates my change of style as a wannabe pin-up girl aged 17 when I first experimented with victory rolls, faux Bettie Bangs and vintage-style clothing. I remember seeing those glamorous Hollywood starlets as a kid on TV and being mesmerised by their other worldly beauty, grace, demeanour and of course, their figures.

I purchased the Morticia corset in June this year, lusting after it for ages and ages before finally biting the bullet and buying it. This structural masterpiece is one of several corsets available by What Katie Did (WKD) but is the most popular, and I'm not surprised! Here's some images from the WKD website:

Before making such a huge investment, I did a LOT of research - not just making sure I found the physically right corset, but one that I felt emotionally attached to aswell. I resolved to have that click, that real energy, enthusiasm and excitement about it before I bought one, and all those feelings came thick and fast when I set eyes upon the Morticia. Here is some information from the WKD website:

Our longer line steel boned Morticia Corset gives a dramatic 1950s wasp-waisted silhouette. "Morticia is an ultra-curvy underbust corset. It features our trademark goring at the hips which ensure that the waist can be pulled in as tightly as desired, without putting undue pressure on the hips. The longer line ensures that tummies are nicely flattened. It is, of course, named after the beautifully macabre and wasp-waisted Morticia Addams, and is as utterly bewitching as its namesake. Morticia was launched in 2008, originally intended as a fashion corset, one to be worn for special occasions. However, it's come our attention that several of you use it daily as a waist training corset. Having had a few amendments over the years, we're now happy to class it as a 'day training' corset, suitable for daily wear for up to 8-10 hours. Please ensure you click on the Sizing tab to decide if Mortica is right for you. Its extreme cut makes Morticia only suitable for those with vintage figures: a 10 inch or greater difference between waist and hip measurements. The sizes below are reduced waist sizes (ie, the corset size when it is closed). You will need to deduct 4-5 inches from your waist to determine your corset size. Please see our Sizing Notes for more information"

I was after a dramatic alteration and envisioned myself in gorgeous pencil skirts and beautiful blouses with this baby giving me that classic 1950s wasp-waisted silhouette. I am lucky enough to be blessed with hourglass proportions, the difference between my waist (24in) and hips (34in) meaning that I have that 10 inch difference required for this particular corset. I bought it in Size 20, having deducted 4 inches from my natural waist measurements.

I haven't been wearing it religiously since June, but I did wear it a lot in the first few weeks after I bought it. This was in order to 'season' the corset, which basically means breaking the corset in and giving it time to mould to the shape and contours of my body. Seasoning a corset is extremely important. If I had just rushed in and expected to lace down to a 20 inch waist after the first few days of buying it (which is a very silly and naive assumption to make in itself), I would have stressed the fabric channels holding the steel boning which could have resulted in the boning tearing through the black satin and ruining the entire corset, as well as potentially damaging one of my ribs. I did a lot of research before deciding on a set method of seasoning my corset, which was an amalgamation of blogs, websites, books and YouTube videos.

(Excuse the lint and foundation mark on my leggings! Too focused on the corset that I didn't notice this)

As you can see from the previous picture as well as this one, I still have a little bit to go until it is fully moulded to my shape, evident by the slightly raised boning at the hip

There's an amazing YouTube vlogger called Lucy, and I'd come across her channel a few years ago and was instantly in awe of her knowledge of corsetry. I've been a fan of hers for a while, but my admiration of her has naturally increased now that I own a corset. She did a great mini-series for beginners a while ago, and has added another video as an addendum to that series. She has a wealth of knowledge and experience and I'd really recommend her videos to anyone considering buying a corset. She also has a great website, and discusses the physical, mental/emotional and social/societal benefits of buying/wearing corsets here, which makes for a really interesting and enlightening read. She considers a wide range of aspects of wearing/buying a corset that you would even consider (okay, I'll stop fan-girling now and get back to my Morticia corset!)

Seasoning a corset is also important for the body to be able to feel accustomed to it. When I first tried it on, it was a surprising sensation and like none I've ever experienced before in terms of wearing an article of clothing (obviously a corset is more than an item of clothing - it's really a piece of historical costume, but hopefully you understand my meaning). Of course it felt restrictive initially, but this wasn't uncomfortable - it was more due to the fabric panels being stiff because it was brand new, which repeated wearing would soften down. I noticed a change in the shape of the corset and my levels of comfort with each day I wore it, and this was down to it being seasoned correctly - my natural body heat was working to soften the rigid nature of its construction. 

See that raised part of the boning near the edge? Still need to season it a bit more until that finally lies flat

After each period of wearing it, I took it off, allowed it to cool down in order to retain the new shape it was forming by small increments with each passing day, and folded it up again, storing it in its original packaging in my wardrobe. Laying it flat on my bed to cool down helped the fabric panelling to adopt the shape it had been laced to that day. If I had just folded it up and stored it whilst it was still warm from my body heat, I would have been essentially spoiling the effort of putting it on in the first place, as this would have disrupted the newly acquired shape that the fabric panels were forming themselves into.

Here I am pretending to look wistfully into the distance...okay, okay, I know I'm fooling no-one. Excuse my exhausted face!

I stopped wearing it by early July, as we had an incredibly hot summer this year and who would be crazy enough to wear a corset in the summer, no matter how gorgeous it is?! Then the second year of uni arrived and I was caught up in a whirlwind of reading and essays and more reading and even more essays...and it sat, neglected (but not forgotten I hasten to add!) in my wardrobe. As we're in the thick of winter now, with the low temperatures being much more forgiving, and as I have some time to relax over the Christmas holidays, I've started wearing it again. I didn't realise how much I missed wearing it! Absence really does make the heart grow fonder.

My commitment to seasoning it properly and patiently has proved well, as putting it on again after many months of not wearing it felt like a hand slipping into a glove - it has retained its shape and my body has got so used to wearing it that I sometimes forgot I even have it on. It feels like a warm hug across my torso. I have rather bad posture so it supports my spine, which is particularly at its worst when I am  hunched over at my desk doing work, for example. Also, I've noticed that when I've worn it for a few hours and then take it off, my muscles feel like they still have its structural support, which I guess must be some sort of muscle memory. So my posture improves even when I'm not wearing it!

One thing I would say to anyone thinking of buying a corset is to be patient! It's all to easy to want to rush in and lace down tightly, but it takes time to adjust both mentally and physically to a corset. This is really important in the long run, for both the corset and more importantly, your body.

The hooks don't look as straight as I'd like them to be...most likely due to me twisting over my left shoulder to look in the mirror behind me whilst lacing up, grrr

This is the first corset I've ever bought and I know it won't be the last. I love it so much! That said, I'm already looking forward and have my eye on this beauty, also by What Katie Did (but only when I eventually manage to lace up more tightly with my current one). Just look at that reduction!

If you're interested in the history of the corset, here is some further reading I'd recommend:

The Corset: A Cultural History by Valerie Steele

Bound to Please: A History of the Victorian Corset (Dress, Body, Culture) by Leigh Summers

Fashion and Fetishism: Corsets, Tight-Lacing and Other Forms of Body-Sculpture by David Kunzle.

I've read a few more, but these are the best of what I've read so far. Being now halfway through my degree, the third-year dissertation looms ever closer, and I'm seriously considering writing about Victorian dress, differences between the sexes and gender politics. I read about it enough for fun so I may as well do something useful with it.

If you're still reading by this point - thanks!

I'll end this very long post with some fabulous ladies wearing the Morticia over their clothes. I'd love to be as brave as them to do this one day!

What Katie Did Christmas launch party at Collectif, Spitalfields

Seasonal Affective Disorder - more than just the winter blues

Tomorrow is the winter solstice. For people like me who are sensitive to daylight, this is a highlight in the year. It marks a turning point in the calendar, where sunlight begins to trump darkness, insignificantly at first, but with increasing momentum by February/March. Don't get me wrong, I'm not incredibly keen on summer as such - I adore the sunlight and brightness but detest the sticky temperatures. Spring is probably my favourite month, probably something to do with being born in April. Everything just seems so refreshed and revived and reborn in the Spring months.

The Guardian published an article on Seasonal Affective Disorder (SAD) a few days ago, (http://bit.ly/1ISCBH7) which tried to distinguish the difference between having SAD or simply being miserable because it's winter. To be honest, I was expecting more from the article. The paragraphs seemed very stilted and "The Solutions" (as termed by the author) were basically: Problems with melatonin? Increase your serotonin! It mentioned light therapy, CBT or anti-depressants, but did say that these methods didn't have enough evidence to prove it's effectiveness to its credit in one sense - but then where were the helpful solutions if the information the author was giving was redundant? The reference to outdoor exercising and increasing your exposure to daylight was helpful, but I felt the article was left wanting.

So I quickly cobbled together my own personal experience of SAD and hit comment, not expecting anything; but I think it resonated with the readers, because not long after it had received 182 recommends, and 26 comments. I thought it might be helpful for other people to share it on here, be it sufferers or potential sufferers who may not even be aware they have SAD (as I once was).

I have suffered with SAD in winters gone by, but was unfortunately too young to have even known that there was a name and a condition for that awful depth of despair the darker months would bring...

This winter has been the first time that I've actually almost enjoyed the colder season for what it is. I long for spring/summer, but have to accept that winter exists. The best thing to do is try and manage it.

What works for me:
1) Getting at least SOME daylight, be it a quick round the block if I'm pushed for time, or swapping public transport for walking during daily errands to and from places.

2) I've been exercising at the gym about 4-5 times a week since October, and the endorphin boost I get during and after each run not only lifts my mood, but depletes my adrenaline/cortisol levels, thus banishing my anxiety. I feel almost sedated afterwards, I'm so calm. Exercise, be it indoors or outdoors makes me feel a sense of acheivement and gives me a focus, too, which is essential for the days when getting out of bed or completing the smallest task feels like too much.

3) Food - I know it's coming up to Christmas but eating relatively well has certainly made my mental health feel better. I don't feel sluggish or deficient in any nutrients or vitamins, and know that what I put in my body will also nourish my mind, too.

4) Create a checklist of all the amazing things you'll be doing once the New Year begins, from January through to August. Have something to look forward to each month. I've got two gigs in Jan and Feb to get excited about and distract me from feeling down :)

5) Draw a big fat red circle around 'Sunday 21st December 2014' on your calendar, and count down the days until the Winter Solstice - because it all gets better from then on, slowly but surely!

I think the key thing here is managing SAD as opposed to trying to find an all-out cure for it. SAD always reminds me of how we are essentially animals, controlled by hormones and rhythms, one of them being our circadian rhythm. The relentless darkness can actually make my sleeping worse, because, teamed with the low daylight hours, it messes up my serotonin/melatonin levels. I associate light with wakefulness, and dark with sleepiness, and this is problematic - because when there are roughly 16 hours of darkness as we near the solstice, I find it hard to settle down and rest. "Oh, if I can't sleep now, it's okay, it'll still be dark in a few hours time, I'll sleep then" I tell myself. And so the pattern of bad sleeping begins.

It probably has something to do with workload as well. For the past three winters my holidays have been filled with work and stress as I revised for exams in the hope of getting into university. I am at university now, and all is well, but I'm still learning and trying to find new ways to manage it. This is especially important as my workload is at its highest point it's ever been in my life. I think I'm nearly there. I have found the transition into the darker months delightful instead of despairing, and I can't complain really, as it was still practically Autumn right up until mid-late November.

The irony of this little acronym is that it so succintly sums up the way we predominantly feel about winter - but it doesn't have to be that way. Small, slow steps of managing it on a daily basis will bring you past the Winter Solstice in no time, and before you know it, it's February and we can start getting excited about Spring. On second thoughts, perhaps that last reference only applies to me...

I'll finish with some pretty pictures of a winter morning sky, as seen from my window:

I love how the streaks of intense white light are covered by daubs of moody grey. If a picture was ever a metaphor for SAD, this is it!

I couldn't post a sunrise picture without a sunset one. The gradient sky is enchantingly beautiful. I'm so lucky to have such a lovely view from my room.

The best laid plans...

I was supposed to be meeting lovely Rosie of DIY Couture for my fitting today but the studio's needed by the owner (who is the producer of The Great British Sewing Bee and very kindly lends it to Rosie), so we're re-scheduling until after Christmas. Kind of a blessing in disguise really, as I have had a very busy week and haven't slept very well, and would probably have been a jumbled incoherent mess upon meeting her today!

Here's some behind-the-scenes images from the first book I modelled for, taken by the talented Hanson Leatherby. Hanson's pictures have an ethereal quality to them and seeing them is reviving memories of the gorgeous house we shot in...

How do we 'read' appearances?

The process of how we deconstruct the appearances of others has always fascinated me. A few months ago, I came across a wonderful quote which likened the process of reading a book to that of reading the physical appearance of a person.

"[Woolf] explores the way reading - whether the reading of texts or the semiotic reading of other people from their appearance - involves bridging or otherwise negotiating gaps in information, reconstructing from hints, 'not exactly what is said, nor yet entirely what is done' (Jacob's Room 24) to create something of greater consistency, of greater constancy, in the process of 'making a whole'" Reading Virginia Woolf, Julia Briggs

Briggs states that Woolf was often concerned 'to pursue analogies between the process of "reading people" and reading texts'. Language comes in a variety of forms, and clothing is indeed one of them. As Frances Corner, Head of London College of Fashion and author of Why Fashion Matters outlines in her introduction, "Fashion matters. To the economy, to society, and to each of us personally. Faster than anything else, what we wear tells the story of who we are - or who we want to be. Fashion is the most immediate and intimate form of self-expression."

It is this immediacy that is significant and largely responsible for our relentless enchantment with fashion as a society. We communicate who we are through two forms of communication - verbal and visual. The first takes time and can sometimes be ineffectual in expressing what we really mean. Communicating who we are as a person through what we wear may take time, too, but is often much faster and more expressive than anything we choose to say. 

The main reason for the different consequences of these opposing types of communication lies in the spheres in which they inhabit. Our thoughts, ideas and words are very much concealed - they reside in the private sphere. By contrast, what we wear and how we present ourselves to society is very much a public matter. When we talk to people, we are letting them into our personal space to enter a dialogue, a conversation with them; we maintain some element of control over this. Getting dressed in the morning becomes more than a simple act of putting on clothes, however. We knowingly construct our appearances with the awareness that the final product, that is the self that we create, will be at the mercy of public consumption. The gazes and glances of others are intrusive and cannot be controlled. The boundaries are imperceptible, perhaps even non-existent. It is almost as if we are in a relentless, silent conversation with those around us, regardless of whether we actively enter a verbal exchange of speech with them.

Returning to Brigg's quote of the semiotic reading of other people from their appearance, Woolf's statement of 'not exactly what is said, nor yet entirely what is done' (Jacob's Room 24) in relation to clothing highlights an analogy I've been considering more and more recently. The cliche of a 'statement piece of clothing' or outfit itself is bandied about a lot, but there is more truth to this than meets the eye. Each item of clothing we wear is like a silent, unspoken word. Verbally or vocally, it says nothing; but visually, it conveys all manner of meaning.

Several questions still whirl around my mind, unanswered.

• How do we give meaning to these visual cues? 
• What is the effect of sewing on how both meaning and integrity are infused in the finished garment?
•  Is it possible to communicate a visually authentic representation of yourself if you are simply consuming given articles of clothing in their whole and complete form?
• Where does the process of creative input begin when deciding on an outfit - in the act of creating and constructing each individual piece of clothing, or by the consumption and co-ordination of different garments in their finished form? 

And finally... am I simply over-thinking things? Should I just let clothes be clothes?!

Refining my recycled rucksack

You may remember I made a certain rucksack back in August from entirely recycled materials and notions... http://bit.ly/1vLJhwq

I've had a problem with the fastening ever since. The pattern called for the top corners to be fastened with Velcro, but it kept on coming loose despite careful hand sewing. I replaced it once again, but to no avail.

I was tempted to sew some popper buttons on the corners to secure it shut, but I didn't have any, and they may have popped open, so perhaps wouldn't be as secure as I'd thought. Hooks and eyes were my only bet. I had six left.

This was desperation, but I still wasn't happy with my choice. I returned the hooks and eyes to my  notions box and lying on the side, out the corner of my eye, was this!

A battered dress zip I'd unpicked from an old dress, complete with original thread. It was even the right colour and everything! I excitedly pinned it to the opening of my bag, praying it would fit...

...and it did! The sewing gods were definitely watching down on me. I hand-sewed it and here's the culmination of my efforts:

Bit of an awkward picture, but I had to put some things inside to stop it flopping forward. It's spoilt the straightness of the zip but it's straight in real life, I promise! I love how structured it is now, as well as how I can put my belongings inside without the fear that they'll fall out as I daydream down the street...

What I'm reading at the moment: Diaries, Vintage Style/Fashion and Sewing (of course)

The amount of books, articles and extracts that I have to read for uni per week can be intense at the best of times. Naturally, what I choose to read outside of this comes as a much needed and welcome break. I've noticed a pattern in the books I've been reading of late...

Diaries

I always feel slightly guilty about reading the diaries of the women I admire, but I find them so inspiring and I like the sense of closeness you get which can't be achieved through other forms of writing.

The Diary of Frida Kahlo: An Intimate Self Portrait - Carlos Fuentes and Sarah M. Lowe

Who doesn't love Frida? She was such a revolutionary thinker and artist and still continues to inspire to this day. The above entry is so, so beautiful and is probably my favourite. I particularly like this passage, from p. 228:

'Kahlo, ever conscious of how she presented herself to others, comments here - she "gave birth to herself" - a remark with numerous allusions. Through the act of painting Kahlo established herself as an artist, and her many self-portraits are manifestations of her need to demonstrate the various aspects of her self."

The idea of giving birth to oneself is quite astonishing, but Frida's sentiment is entirely understandable. Of course we are all born into this world, but that birth is merely an existence. To give birth to yourself is to give life to yourself. I imagine Frida possibly wrote this with an air of confidence in her self-identity, in the woman she was growing into. We don't have complete control over what happens in our lives, but we do have control over how we choose to respond to every situation that we are presented with. Our lives come into being because of the decisions we choose to make, the paths we decide to take...

Yesterday, Today, Tomorrow: My Life - Sophia Loren

This is an autobiography, so feels a little less intrusive, but still fits into the genre of personal writing. The handwritten note says 'Don't ever try to disguise yourself in order to approach an ideal. Think of the irregularities of your face as the Treasure - which they really are'.

Sophia was subject to  immense pressure in the early stages of her career to change her appearance. She says 'In those days, my beauty wasn't considered "orthodox", and the photographers and cameramen would say things like: "She's impossible to photograph. Her face is too short, mouth is too big, and her nose is too long." Sophia undeniably possesses incredibly strong and beautiful features, but she was also fortunate enough to be blessed with incredible cheekbones to balance out her proportions. She's my favourite pin-up of all time, having struggled against a difficult and poverty-stricken start in life to flourish into the acclaimed actress she is today through determination and resilience (as well as lots of talent, too!)

Vintage Style/Fashion

Style Me Vintage - Naomi Thompson and Liz Tregenza

This book is visually stunning and a joy to flick through. A lot of love and care was poured into this! Vintage accessories are the perfect finishing touch to complete a historically-accurate outfit, and have become collectibles in their own right. Style Me Vintage: Accessories covers a vast array of delightful things, from jewellry and handbags to sunglasses, hats and more.

That teal-green shirt with my hand-sewn butterfly embellishments I'm wearing in the second picture is sadly no more, as I've deconstructed it and made a pattern from it! It's nearly finished, with only got the collar, sleeve, cuffs and buttonholes left to be sewn, so hopefully I'll have it up within the next few days. 

Why Fashion Matters - Frances Corner

I've only just started this and have been dipping in and out without hampering my reading experience, because it's a list of 101 reasons about why fashion matters. My favourite it number 28, entitled 'Trendsetter, Trendshirker'. Corner points out that 'Clothes say something to the world about who you are; they are visual indicators of the private decisions we make every morning when we choose what to wear for the day.'

She supports this argument with a really powerful quote by art historian Quentin Bell, (who was also the nephew of personally adored Virginia Woolf!) On the symbolic power of clothes, he wrote:

'Our clothes are too much a part of us for most of us ever to be entirely indifferent to their condition: it is as though the fabric were indeed a natural extension of the body, or even the soul.'

Clothes touch us not only physically, but emotionally, too. As Roland Barthes, the theorist and author of The Fashion System wrote:

'Clothing concerns all of the human person, all of the body, all of the relationships of man to body as well as the relationships of the body to society. The wearing of an item of clothing is fundamentally an act of meaning that goes beyond modesty, ornamentation and protection. It is an act of signification and therefore a profoundly social act right at the heart of the dialectic society.' (My italics)

This final sentence really resonates with me. The semiotics of dress is something we all engage in, everyday. Our clothes and the ways in which we present ourselves are codes to be deciphered by others. What makes this act of decoding even more interesting is the influence of perception on interpretation - each person reads an image differently, as much as each person reads a text differently. There are a number of factors influencing both our perception and subsequent interpretation at any one time, hence the vast array of trends and choice when it comes to style and clothing. 

Sewing

As time seems to have become an ever increasing rarity these days, I've taken to reading about sewing when I'm pushed for time but still craving my stitching fix.

DIY Couture: Create Your Own Fashion Collection - Rosie Martin

This is currently on loan to a friend, but that doesn't matter, because everyone in the sewing community is aware of its existence. It's been out for a few years and is one of my favourites! I always return to it when I feel like I've lost my sewing mojo. My favourite quote comes from the introduction and always makes me feel inspired:

'Sewing is a visual activity. making clothes is simply a process of binding big flat sheets of colour together to create something three-dimensional. You do not need years of training or instinctive skills to make a piece of clothing that you are proud of; that is good-looking, wearable, and durable. You look at how the garment hangs on your body; you think about how it feels; you look at the colour or pattern of the fabric.'

This book teaches you the skills and techniques involved in sewing, rather than faffing about with confusing patterns. Rosie is currently working on her second book and I'm excited to say I shall be featuring in it! I'm looking forward to having a sneak preview of the amazing designs she's created so far in a few weeks, as I have my fitting soon :)

How Patterns Work - Assembil Books

This is more of a textbook style sewing book, and probably suitable for intermediate/advanced sewing enthusiasts/fashion students as there's a lot of terminology and complex diagrams which would probably confuse a beginner. It's really useful for those interested in altering patterns or drafting their own.